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NORTH T1R0L—THE INNTHAL. 2 85 liomage of thè people on his acecssion, and a gay eere- monial ensitecL jet. it lesi in,neh of its import,ance by having no longer a resident court,., While t li ere,, how- evcr. Leopold hart seem thè ìjeautiful fi augi iter of Ferdinand KarFs widow, Claudia Felicità, who made sudi an impression upon hiin, that he nnarried ber on thè deai li of Ins first vife, The ceremony was per forai ed in Innsbruck by proxy only ; but thè dowager- arcluluchess provideri great

letes, in viridi thè city rendily condirmi, and gave thè bride thirty thousand fpihìmi for her wedding present. Claudia Felicità, in ber state at Vienna, did not target thè good town of Innsbruck ;. and by ber Interest wit-h ber husband, Tirol received a Statthalter in thè person of Charles Duke of Lotha- ringia, husband of bis sistor Eleonora Maria, widow of thè King of Poland. Charles took rip bis residence at .Innsbruck ; and fcìiougb he was often absent witb thè arany, thè presente of bis family

rovivcd thè gaiety of thè town ; stili il was not like thè old days of thè court. Charles, however, w ; lio bari been originally eclu- cated- for thè ecclcsiast-ical state, was a sovereign of unexceptionable principies and sound judginent. ; and he did many things for thè 'benefit of Tiro.'!, partiell- lari? in developing its «*lueat fonai establishment-?. He raised thè Jesuit gymnasii im. of Innsbruck to thè cha racter of a university ; and thè privikgcs witli, wliich he cndowod it, added to thè

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than time or distance ; and bere, far from all aid in the associations of hoine, and while the rest of her party were yet a great way off—almost out of sight—slie had speech me out, and carne to give her trug and kearty greeting. It is a pleasant association with Innsbruck, a revela- tion of that pure and lasting love which dog-nature seems to ha ve been speciali/ created to convey : but it Was not of Innsbruck. Innsbruck— Schpruck, as the indigenous call it—tkoug'h the chief, is the least Tirolean

town of Tirol. It apes the airs and viees of a capital, with out kaving the magnificence and con- venience by which they are engendered. There is a page of Tirols history blotted by a deed which Innsbruck alone, of all Tirol, could bave com- mitted, and which it indeed requires its long and otherwise uniformi/ high character for bolli exeeeding' hospitality and exeeeding loyalty to cancel. The sub- ject of it was its own Kaiser Max, wkose prüden ce in governmental details and gallanti*/ in the

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firmness; execution— Rostoration of Austrian rulc—Hofer’s momi ni ent—Tirolese loyalty in 1848—The Ferdinandeum ; its curiosities —Early editions of German authors—Paintings on cobweb—The Schiess-stand—Poliev of thè Viennese Government, Constitution al Opposition of Tirol—Population of Innsbruck . . page 265 CllAFTER X. NORTH TIROL OBERINNTHAL, INNSBRUCK TO ZIEL AND SC HAKNITZ—INNSBRUCK TO THE LISENS-FEBNER. Excursi ons from Innsbruck—Müh lau ; new church ; Baronin Sternbach —Judgment of Frau

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246 THE VALLEYS OF TIROL, His wise administration and prudent conoessions soon conciliated the people ; thougk severe measures were also needed, and tlie year 1529 was signaüzed in Inns bruck by some terrible executions. These were forgotten when, in tlie year 1531, Charles Quint, returning vic torioris frora Pavia, on his way to Augsburg stayed and held court at Innsbruck; Ferdinand inet Mm on the Brenner pass, and accompanied kim to thè capital. When Charles reached the Burg, Ferdinand

^ children received hira at the ent rance ; and thè tenderti ess with which he greeted and kissed them was remarked by the people, on whom this token of homely affection had a powerful effect. Electors and princes, spiritual and temporal, carne to pay their homage to the Emperor ; and Innsbruck was so filled with tlie titled throng, that the Landtag had to remove ita aession to Hall. Ferdinande other dominions, and the question of the threatened war with Turkey, necessitated frequent absences from

Innsbruck. Düring one of these (in 1534) the Burg was humt down, and his children were only rescued from their beeis with difficulty. The great Hall, called the goldene Saal, and the state bedroom, which was so beautifully ornamented that it bore the title of das Paradies, were all reduced to ashes. In 1541 Innsbruck was once more honoured by a visit of the magnificent Emperor ; and again, ten years later, he took up his residence there, that he might he near the Session of the Council of Trent

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, 87 Hundskapelle, 315 Hundskehlthal, 88 Ingeniun’s garden, St., 356-7 Inorai n, 334 Inn river. 81, 84, 111, 126,230,286,237, &e. Innsbruck, 225 et seq. — its character, 226 et seq, — hotels, 228-9 — mountains surround- ing it, 229 INDEX. INN Innsbruck streets, 230 — suburbs,.230 et seq,, 259, 269, 278, 310 et seq, — hi story, 226, 230 et seq. — Goldene Dachl-Geb äude, 240-3 — the Burg, 244, 246, 282, 298, 301 — ehnrehes, 247 et seq., 257, 272, 274, 275, 280, 290-1 — Franci scan church, 247 — Hofkirche, 247

of St. John, Nepomueen, 291 — The Triumphpforte, 294 1 447 Jtrp Innsbruck, the Gotte sacker, 299 — The St. Veitßkapelle, 299 — Berg Isel, 800-1 — Hofer’s monument. 304-5 — Museum (Ferdinan deum), 306-8 — Schiess-stand, 308-9 — population, 309 Innerlahn, 206 Isarthal, 324, 325 Ischgl, 30 Isel Berg, 156, 300, 336 Iselthal, 102 Italiana in Tirol, 122- 4, 199, 270,283,284, 299, 340, 345, 350, 365 Ivano, 397 TACK O’ LANTEKH, O 413 Jenbach, 79, 80, 92-3, 125, 132-3 Jeu*, Wand eri ng, 117 Jews in Tirol, 22, 212

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riches too, he made tbis elegant little piece of display, which servecl also to adorn his good town of Innsbruck ; but he did not on that aecount alter bis frugal management of bis finances ; so that wben he carne to die, though he had made none cry out that he had laid burdens on them, he yet left a replenished treasury, 1 This is still one of the notable Ornaments of Innsbruck. The house is let to private fami lies, but i Consuit Zoller, Geschichte der Stadt Innsbruck ; and Staffier, das Deutsche

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NORTH TIROL—THE INNTHAL. SOS laici him, which is one of the chief Ornaments of the Hofkirche. The pedestal bears the inscription— Seinen in den Befreiungskämpfen, gefallenen Söhnen das dankbare Vaterland, and the sarcophagos the words— Absorbta est mors in victoria. Tirol had 110 reason to regret the restoration of the dynasty for which she had suffered so much. Most of her an tief privileges were resto red to her, and in 1826 Innsbruck again received thè honour of a University, and many

usefitl inst-itutions werc founded. Francis carne to Innsbruck again this year, and while there, received thè visit of thè Emperor of Russia and the King of Prussia. Another shooting-matcli was held before them, at which thè precision of thè Tirolese received mudi prai.se : and again for a short time in 1835. The Archduke John, who carne in 1835 to live in Tirol, was received wird great enthusiasm ; his hardy feats of mountain climbing, and liearty accessible character, endearing him to all the people

. The troubl.es of 1848 gave thè Tirolese again an opportunity of showing that their ancicnt loyalty was undiminished. The Emperor Ferdinand, driven out of his capitai, found that he had not reckoned wrongly in counting on a secure refuge in Tirol. It was the evening of May 16 that the Imperial pair came as fugitives to Innsbruck. Though there was hardly time to announce their adveni before their arrivai,

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. INNSBRUCK. Our greeting ; eh ara eteri stics of the people ; Innsbrucks treatment of Kaiser Max ; the (Estereichislier hof ; our apartment ; mountain view ; character of thè town ; its hi story—Wüten ; the reinster ; mytli of Haymon the giant; his burial-place; parisli church; Marienbild unter den vier Säulen ; relic of the tfaundering legion—- First record of Innsbruck; chosen for seat of government; for residence by Friedl mit der leeren Tasche—Character of Tirolean rille rs— the G ol d eno-Dachl

-Gebäude—Sigismund theMonied; bis re ception of Christian I. ; condition of Tirol in his time ; bis castles ; abdication—Maximilian ; builds the Burg; magnificence of his reign ; legenda of him ; his declino—Charles Quint; cedes Tirol to Ferdinand I.; his wise «Administration ; quieta popular agita tion ; Charles Quint s visite to Innsbruck ; al tacked by Maurice, Elector of Saxony ; carried luto Ca vintili a in a litter ; death of Maurice —Ferdinand I., thè Hof- Eirche ; Maximilian’s cenotaph ; its

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example of piety and a well-regulated Mfe. Her asso ciatione witli Innsbruck were neverthcles» ovcrshadowerl by sad eventa moro tliaii once, tboiigb tbis does not appear to bave diminished bei* affection for tbe place. 'When Marshai Daun took a wiiole divisimi of tbe Prussian army captive at Maxen in 1758, tbe officers, mine in numher, were sent to Innsbruck for safc cnstody. Here tliey remai ned tili tbe dose of tbc war, fi ve years later. Tiils, and tbe fiirniahlng some of its faraona

roads and bridge», and ereeting a triumphal are of unusual »olidity at Mie end of tbe Neustadt nearest Wilten, being timt by which tbe royal pair would pass on their way from fin ly ; for Leopold was then Grand Duke of Tnscany. Tbe t-heatre and public buiklings wert; likowise put in order. Maria Theresa, witli lier Intsbaiid Franci» I., and all tbe Imperial fami ly, arrived in Innsbruck on Jiily 15, attracting a larger asaemblage of great people tlian had 1>cen seeii tliere even in in palmiest days

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he had always stood in bonds of so muck love, that he turned to spend his few declining years. But Innsbruck, when it saw Mm thus, seems to have forgotten his prowess and his benefits, and to bave remembered only a piti fui squabble about payment of the score for the maintenance of bis house- hold at his last visit. A ruler who had spent liimself in bettering the condition of his people might well, in the days of his weariness and sadness of heart, have expected to meet with more liberality at their

hands ; but frorn Innsbruck, where—little obscure provincia! town as it was—he had so often held his court, which had been raised in importati ce and singularly enriched by royal marriages and receptions and other costly ceremonies celebrated there at his desire, and which by his example and instigation had become tbe residence of rnany nobles who had learnt under his administration to vaine peaceful study above thè pursuit of war— frorn Innsbruck he had most of all to expect. And yet on this

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s —Ferdinand ’ s devotion to thè Blessed Sacra meli t ; analogen» legend of Rudolf of Hapsburg —Ferdinand’s second marriage—The Capiichin Church— Maximilian tlio Deutsch meister ; introduces thè Servitos—Paul Lederer— Marmili an’s bermi tage — S. Lorenzo of Brindisi—Dreiheiligkeitskirche — Pro vision« against ravages of thè Thirfcy Years’ War—The Siechenhaus —Leopold V. ; dispensed from his episcopal Jurisdiction and vows; Marries Claudia de’ Medici— Friedrich v. Tiefenbach—F estiviti es at Innsbruck —The

; frescoes ; preservation of Damian Asam— Strafarbeits- haus —Church of S. John Nepomuk ; his populari ty ; eanonisation-— Maria Theresa ; her partiality for Innsbruck ; examplo ; Prussian prisoners ; marriage of Leopold ; death of Francis I. ; thè Triumph pforte, thè Damenstift —Joseph II, —Archduchoss Maria Elizabeth —Pius VI. passes through Innsbruck —Leopold II.— Repeal of Josephinischen rneasures —Francis IL—Outbreak of thè French revolution—-Das Mädchen v. Spinges—The Auferstehungsfeier Archduchess

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12 TUE VALLEYS OF TIROL. morality, hospitality ; and, for that whieh is of most importali ce to thè tourist, all wlio liave been among them will bear witness to thè j astice of thè remark in thè latest Cfuide-book, that, except just in thè more culti vated centres of Innsbruck, Brixen, and Botzen, yen need take no thought among thè Tiroleans con cernili g thè ealìs on your parse. My first acquaiatance with Tirol was made at Feld kirch, wb ore I had to pay somewhat d early for my lo ve of thè

legendary and the primitive. Our pian for the autunni was to join a party of friends from Italy at Innsbruck, spend some months of long-promised enjoy- ment in exploring Tirol, and return together to winter in Rome. The arrangernents of the journey had been left to me ; and as I delight in getting beyond railways and tra veli ing in a conveyance whose pace and houxs are more under one’s own control, I traced our road through France to Baie, and' then by way of Zürich and Roxschach and Oberriet

to Feldkirch (which I knew to he a post-station) as a base of operatione, for leisurely threading our mountain way through Bludenz and Landeck and the intervening valleys to Innsbruck. How our plan was thwarted 1 I will relate presentiy. I still recommend this line of route to others less en- cumbered with luggage, as leading through out-of-the- 1 The usuai fate of relying on Eoad-books, Ours, I forget- whether Arntbors or Trautwem’s, said there was regulär communieation between Oberriet and Feldkirch

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only forty-five. The traditions of his courage and -endurance, his probity and steadfastness, are manifold ; bnt in connexion with Innsbruck we bave only to gpeak of bis brief administration tliere, which was un tami shed by a single imwortky deed, a single act of severity towards prisoners of war, of wliom he had nnmbers in his power who had dealt cruel liavoc on bis beloved v aller s. The Emperor for wliom he had fought so noblen ■retumed to Innsbruck, to receive the homage of the Tirolese

forgotten when ehe once more had leisure for works of peace. His precious remains, which had been carefully interred by the priest who consoled his last moments at Mantua, were brought to Innsbruck in 1823, and laid temporarüy in the Servitenldoster. On Ffebruary 21 t-hey were hörne in solemn processi on by six of bis brothers in arme, all the clergy and people following. The Abbot of 'Willen sang thè requiem office. The Emperor ordernd the conspicuous and appropriate monument to mark the spot where

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Oi IO THE VALLEYS OF TIROL. CHAPTER X. >* 01’.TH TIROL—OBERLNN ITT AL. IX-VSEETTCK TO ZIEL AXD SCHARXITZ—INNSBRUCK TO T3IE US ENS-FERNE R.. 1 tavf/kt fkc hf.art of the hoy to rcvel In talk of old greatncas timi vcvr.r tire, Aubiiey DK Vere. Tiio.se who wish to visit the logend-homos of Tirol without anj great measure of c roughing,' will doubtless . find Innsbruck the most convenient base of operations for many excursions of various lengths to places which the pedestrian would take on his

onward routes. TIioso on the north and east, which have been already suggested from Hall and Schwatz, may also he treated thus. Il remains to mention those to he fornici on the -west, north-west, and south. But first there is Midi lau, also J 7 to the east, reached by an avenuc of poplars betweon the right bank of the Inn and the railway ; where the river is crossed by a suspension-bridge. There are ba.ths bere which are mudi visited by the Innsbruckers, and many prefer staying there to Innsbruck

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The chief remaining points óf interest in the further journey to Innsbruck, taking it up where we diverged from it at Nasser eit, are mentioned later in my excur- sions for Innsbruck. in her tower, and by the token her father discovered her conversion, de livered her to judgment, and she suffered an incredible repetition of martyrdoms. She is generally pai nie d wird her three-wi ndowed tower in her hand. 4. S. Blase, Bishop of Sebaste and Martyr, a .». 288. He had studi ed medicine, and when

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jealousies of race in t-he t-rcuric fate of her cium- cellor Biener., 1 Ferdinand Karl having att.ained bis majority in 1646, Claudia withdrew from public affuirs, and dieci otily two yeurs later. In bis reign thè introduction of t-he Italian element at court was apparent in thè grcater luxitry of it» arrangement«, and in thè grcater cultivation of histrionie and musical diversicns. The establish ment of thè theatre in Innsbruck is din; to him. The in arri ago of hi« two sisters, Maria. Leopoldina, and

. Isabella Clara, and thè frequent intcrchange of visits between him and thè princes of It a!}*, flirt her etwas rein Innsbruck, Tbc visit of Queen Christina,® of which I bave al ready said enotigh 'for iny limita, also took planen in bis reign ( 1655)., Nor did Ferdinand Karl givo hitn- self up to amusement to thè negleet of business, or of * St* pj>. 12 r>„ i, # Sho «iw f.„ii ber wiiy lo lioini», whoro sii* gjwiil il» »-it, d h(?r bfe, Ahxmulf-r VII. cotnmi«»ir>ncd lo rclmild thè Porta ilei 1’ojMilo

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it a salile jacket, and a hat with a plumo of eagìes 5 feathers. The banquetwas entirely semel byymiogTi roteati noble«, The Emperora present to bis bride was a pearl partir^ costing thirty thousand ducuta ; and that of thè town of Innsbruck a purae of eighteen thousand ducuta, l^copnld was conhrmed by bis imperiai brother in thè govemment on this occasioni. Hìs own marriage was celebrated with scarcelylesa state than thè Ernpcror’s in Aprii 16*20, am array of handsome tenti being pitched in thè meadow

» of Wilteii, where thè Landtik&ckiitzGn performed many marksmen’s feats for thè diversion of thè company a», sembled for thè ceremonial. This included thè Ardi- bishop of Salzburg, who officiateci in thè Chiireh, func- t-ion, one hundred and fifty counts and barons, and ili ree hundred of noble blood. The visit of thè Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1628,, and of Ferdinand, King of Hungary and Bob etnia, :in 1629, were other notable occasioni* of rejoicing for Innsbruck. Leopold benefited and adonied thè town

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gence indeed. The whole grass-bearing aoil is di videe! among them. The more prosperosa ha ve a cow or more of their own. by thè produce of which they live ; others take in cows from Innsbruck and Hall to graze. The butter they make becomes an article of merchan- disc, thè transport of which over thè mountain patiis provides a hard and precarious livelihood for a yet poorer class ; thè pay is about a halfpenny per Ih, per day, and to make thè wage eke out a man will carry a lumdred and a woman

in thè dark, during great part of thè year allowing scarcely four or live hours for sleep. Nor is this their only industry, They contrive also to grow barley and flax ; this never ripens, yet they make from it a kind of yarn? which finds a ready sale in Innsbruck ; they weave from it too a coarse linen, which helps to ciò thè them, together with thè home-spun wool of their sheep. Also, by an incredible exercise of pati enee, they manage to heap up and support a sufficient qnantity of earth

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.Anna Katliarina Gon zaga, datigli ter of thè Duke of Mant.ua, wlm was no lesa plotts tirali Philippine. The marriage was cclcbratcd at Innsbruck witli great pomp. Hhe 'was the first to introduce the Capuchin Order into (»ermany. Some fiiscnssion .in the general chapter of the Order pro cederi the decision which allowed the monks to acccpt, the consequences of being oxposcd to a colder climate tban that fco whicli, they lind been used. The first itone of their monastery was laici by Ferdinand and

Anna Katharina in August 1593, at the intersecfcion of the Universitäts-gasse and thc Sdl-gasse. Ferdinand dieci the following year, regretted by all the people, but by none more than by Anna Katharina, who passed the remainder of her days in a convelli she had fbunded at Innsbruck, She died in 1621, and desi red the following inscription to be put on her tomb :— 4 Mimrem mei .Domine dum veneris in novimkm die' Tire warning of the disastrali» years 1572-4 was further tnnied to practica] account

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perhaps as miich for its pleasant mountain breezes as for thè medicina! properties of the waters, There is another interest in g excursion which should be followed before reaching Innsbruck, but it is more easily made freni Hali than from Volders, though stili on the right bank of thè Inn, The first village on it is Ampass, a walk of about fonr miles from Hali through the rnost cliarming scenery ; it is so ealled simply as being situated on a pass between the hilis traversed on the road to Hali

to Sistrans, a village whose chorch boasts of having becn embellished by Claudia de’ Medici, Its Situation is delightful ; thè green plain is strewed with fifteen towns and villages, in eludili g Hall and Innsbruck, and behind these rise the great ränge of alps, while on the immediate foreground is the tiny Lanserse which will afford excellent Forellen for luncheoe. The bed of this same Lansersee, it is said, was once covered 1 There is a carriage-roacl reaching noarly to thè top of the Lan- serkopf.

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