CORTINA D'AMPEZZO 173 It was at this time that the Doge and Senate, always magnanimous in their treatment of allies and dependencies, bestowed upon it the distinction so proudly emblazoned on its arms, ' The Magnificent Commune of Ampezzo.' But in 1511, during the wars of Venice with Austria, the Valley of Ampezzo, unlike the rest of Cadore, declared for the enemy, and in 1518 it was formally united to the Pusterthal. Then arose the proverb, still current in Cadore, ' Cadore fedel. Ampezzo
rubel' (Cadore faithful, Ampezzo rebelli ous). In 1797, when the treaty of Campo Fornio was signed, Napoleon Bonaparte allowed Austria to retain possession of it, but having in 1805 created his Kingdom of Italy, in 1810 he added Ampezzo to it as part of the ' Department of the Piave.' In 1813, on the decline of Napoleon's power, Austria again regained possession of it. In 1866, when, after the battles of Custozza and Sadowa, Austria was compelled to hand over Venetia to Italy, Ampezzo was foolishly
retained, to perpetuate as part of 'Unredeemed Italy ' a chronic state of friction. Cortina has gained and lost by its connection with Austria. It has gained the peace and prosperity of a country that has no history, but it has lost the strength and self-reliance born of the struggle for life and liberty. While Cadore has continued down the centuries to produce patriots, the record of whose exploits in song and history kindle in the hearts of her children to-day a noble ambition, Cortina since 1511 has
produced no hero and no actions worthy of renown. Its people are subjects of Austria, but they are not citizens. Indeed, as the syndic of Cortina said to us, 'In all the Austrian Tyrol there are not five thousand persons who know how they are governed, and in Cortina there are not ten.' Perhaps this freedom from political turmoil has had its influence in making Cortina one of the most frequented places of resort in the Dolomites. A glance at the town was sufficient to show us that it had far more
